IN THE SUBURBS
Customize your meal at this great grilling house
BY CASSANDRA ANDERTON
Now that the dedicated team of Chef Suave Jedynak and his wife Lulu have purchased an Austin Avenue pancake house in Coquitlam and turned it into the Pacific Rim Grille, locals finally have upscale dining in their own backyard.
The restaurant is a welcome change from the surrounding scene, which is dominated by Vietnamese restaurants. Comfortable tan tones decorate the interior and live jazz is hosted on Fridays. On the night we stopped in, a server had failed to show, and Lulu Jedynak was working some front end magic.
Dipping our house-made foccacia bread, we scanned the vast menu trying to make some choices for tapas. Beef and chicken satays, chilled prawns, and smoked duck sausage looked promising, but we opted for the ahi tuna salad and grilled portabello mushroom.
A deliciously layered salad arrived in a crisp potato basket. Inside there were fresh baby greens, seasoned seaweed, radish sprout, enoki mushrooms and a garnish of ginger soy and wasabi sauces. Perfectly seared yellowfin tuna was artistically fanned around the basket.
Grilled portabello came topped with gorgonzola cheese, sun-dried cranberries, fresh herbs and a balsamic drizzle — a myriad of flavours combined to form a completely superb creation.
Diners were chatting quietly. A mother and daughter ordered dessert and some business men poured over documents, obviously combining business with pleasure. The music is nonintrusive and somewhat elevator like, but it seemed to please the crowd.
We sifted through the wide selection of dinner entrées, making some difficult choices. Wild boar and lamb chops were tempting, so were the wild salmon, and cioppiono — a fresh seafood stew. Vegetarians would be happy to see grilled tofu and ripe tomato spaghettini. We narrowed it down to two selections, the duck breast and the elk medallions.
My companion believes in sharing, giving me the chance to try both dishes. The elk was grilled medium rare and served with shallot mashed potato, goat cheese port wine sauce, and a root vegetable confit. The duck was paired with barley risotto and brandied sour cherry jus. The portions were generous and Chef Suave proved he had mastered the grill from his days at the Wedgewood Hotel, and Seasons in the Park. Both meats were cooked as requested — the duck being especially juicy.
All the entrées can be arranged a la carte, allowing you to customize
your meal by combining a main with roast potatoes, wedge cut fries, seasonal vegetables or braised cabbage. Desserts include a tuxedo truffle mousse, grilled banana and crème brulee. We went for a trio of blackcurrant, lime and passion fruit sorbetto and were impressed to have it delivered on top of a monstrous ice cube.
The wine list had good representation of British Columbian wines. With the tuna we tried the Quail’s Gate Chenin Blanc and with our mains the Hester Creek Cabernet Merlot, both priced reasonably in the $6 range.
Prices for the appetizers range from $6.95 to $12.95 and dinners from $13.95 to $27.95 for a mixed grill. Lunch specials are about $7.95 with sandwiches starting at $6.95.
Looking for some great grilling without having to venture downtown? I can guarantee you’ll appreciate this Coquitlam treasure.
PACIFIC RIM GRILLE
Located at — 1126 Austin Ave. in Coquitlam
Phone: 604-939-4000
The Pacific Rim Grille is open for lunch on Monday to Friday from 11:30 a.m. until 2:30 p.m.; dinner Monday to Thursday from 5:30 p.m. until 9 p.m., Friday and Saturday open until 10 p.m. and closed Sundays
Pacific Rim Grille chef-owner Suave Jedynak and owner Lulu Jedynak display some examples from the menu at their upscale restaurant in Coquitlam. PHOTO BY BILL KEAY/VANCOUVER SUN
