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Thursday » April 5 » 2007
A fine West Coast eatery tucked away in unlikely spot Chef Suave Jedynak brings expertly prepared dishes to Coquitlam at his Pacific Rim Grille
Don't let the less-than-glamorous exterior of this restaurant fool you. Its simple black-and-white sign is easily passed over, the blinds are drawn shut, and its location -- wedged into a darkened commercial block -- is far from enticing. But Pacific Rim Grille is a diamond in the rough. Inside, curtains drape regally over the windows, shutting out any distraction from the streets. Tan-coloured walls and dim lighting accented by candlelight create an inviting atmosphere. Soft jazz radiates from overhead speakers. Tables of cheerful diners -- mostly parties of sophisticated, middle-aged clientele and doe-eyed couples -- chatter over expertly constructed plates of food. It's a busy place for those in the know. And now I must apologize to the locals for spoiling their secret. Chef-proprietor Suave Jedynak describes the food as West Coast cuisine with Pacific Rim influences. Having worked at high-end French restaurants in Vancouver, Jedynak said he is playing on these skills by experimenting with the menu to "play with local tastes." "We wanted to introduce something to Coquitlam that's not available in the area. There's a lot of ethnic food but not so much West Coast cuisine," he said later in a telephone interview. "We also have a few exotic offerings -- duck or quail, elk -- but also cater to common tastes with the New York steak and beef filet." The menu offers a range of contemporary dishes featuring mussels, wild salmon, Alaskan black cod, quail, elk and steak (all under $30). They also have a selection of tapas ranging from $2.95 to $4.95 each. We started out with the prawn cocktail ($8.95), a great sharing dish with four plump, fresh-off-the-boat prawns atop a salad of clean, delicate flavours: salsa, saffron aioli and lychees with a sprinkling of wasabi peas, which added a nice burst of flavour. Another tempting appy was the Drunken Calamari, with Absolut vodka on a pea sprout nest with mint yogurt and onion crisps ($9.95), which I vowed to test on my next visit. For my entree, I ordered the prawn tequila penne, with jalapenos, peppers, cilantro and a creamy Sauza sauce ($18.95). It arrived in a heaping bowl topped with chunks of vegetables and sprinkled with parmesan. The pasta was cooked al dente and had bursts of flavour from the sauteed onions, vegetables and herbs, although I didn't detect any tequila (thankfully) or jalapenos (I would have liked a bit of spice). The prawns, again, were juicy and fresh: a rarity in B.C., I've found, having been spoilt in previous years while living in Australia, where the seafood is always exquisite. My dining partner ordered the eight-ounce rack of lamb ($25.95), which came with shallot mashed potato, red wine jus, chipotle butter and seasoned vegetables. He ordered it medium rare and it was cooked to perfection. "Mmm, tender," he purred, before proceeding to pluck every last morsel from the bone. The vegetables were fresh and the mash creamy. Not a scrap of food was left on the plate by the time he'd finished. Pacific Rim Grille has an excellent drinks list including beer, cocktails, sparkling wine and a varied selection of B.C. and imported wines (only local wines by the glass). They also offer a range of specialty coffees and after-dinner drinks. For the sweet tooth, a few highlights include the grilled banana, sorbetto to cleanse the palate, and creme brulee (each cost $5.95). Perhaps the only thing letting this place down is the washrooms, which could do with some modern fixtures to mirror the casual glamour of the dining area. While we commented softly about our pleasurable meal, our server -- eagerly attentive and all smiles -- arrived at our table to take our plates. "That was scrum-diddly-umptious," declared my beaming dining partner in his thick Aussie drawl. I kid you not. The woman looked stunned, then broke into a huge grin. "Oh, I've never heard that one before!" she replied. Neither had I. kholloway@png.canwest.com - - - AT A GLANCE Pacific Rim Grille 1126 Austin Ave., Coquitlam Open for dinner Tuesday to Sunday from 5 p.m. Reservations recommended on weekends, 604-939-4000. www.pacificrimgrille.com Restaurant visits are done anonymously and interviews are conducted by phone. © The Vancouver Sun 2007 |
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